Functional Strength

One of the great pioneers of functional power training methods Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board in 1988 while he was training for a new route, Action Directe, which requires extreme dynamic finger strength. Functional power training can target more specific climbing muscles and movements and will help you address specific weaknesses. This kind of training best begins with a thorough evaluation of your current level to uncover your strengths and weaknesses. Based on the results of your evaluation, a program will need to be designed to complement your strengths and improve your weak points.

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Leg raise (with elbow support)

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Eccentric pull ups

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Finger extension

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Thumb extension

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Finger lift

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3 x 30

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4 x 4

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Back row

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French pullups

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Encores (hangtraining)

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Repeaters (hangtraining)

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Dead hangs (hangtraining)

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Finger pull-ups

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Basic finger grip positions (two finger pairs)

Basic finger grip position (open hand)

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Typewriter

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Campus (maximum touch)

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campus (crossed)

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Campus (doubles)

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campus (feet-off bouldering)

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Basic finger grip positions (crimp)

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Pointy game

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Add on game

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Ring row (rings)

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Ring flies (rings)

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Front Lever

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Ab roll-out (exercise ball)

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Shoulder Serratus (Thera-Band)

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Front raises (thera-band)

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Lateral raises (thera-band)

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scapular retraction

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Reverse leg-curl

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Dynamic front levers

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Pyramid pull ups

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One arm pull-up

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Campus laddering (irregular)

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Campus bumps

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Campus laddering