3 x 30

3 x 30

Categories

Level

  • N/A
  • Light

Muscles Involved

  • N/A

Equipment

  • N/A
  • Climbing wall

Remark or addition

Description

  • This exercise is more suited for route climbers or when your projecting long traverses and should be primarily used in the first phase of your training cycle.  This kind of training is  a good example of aerobic energy restoration and capillarity training, and is set out to develop more capillaries in your arms. During this exercise you will work on several aspects of your climbing at the same time. First of all you will be doing "high volume climbing" which will work your technique, muscle memory and efficiency of  movement. Secondly if you incorporate a good steady breathing technique you will gradually improve you breathing in harder problems later on.
  • A higher percentage of capillaries will result in more efficient blood flow in your arms. When you get pumped during climbing, the capillaries in your forearms get squeezed and restrict the flow of blood that you need to remove the lactic acid that your muscles produce during climbing. When you do this exercise regularly, the density of your capillaries will increase and you will be able to make better use of the rest position in your project.
  • Set a climb, or look for good to semi-good holds in a 20-30° overhang at your local or home gym, and try to stay on the wall without touching the ground for 30 minutes.
  • The aim of this exercise is to not get totally pumped! Try to find a sequence you can climb at 20-30% of you maximum.
  • After each repetition rest for 15 minutes. Repeat this 3 times.

 

Points of attention

  • If you get pumped, jump off and rest for 2 minutes, then continue to climb.
  • Aim for finger friendly holds.
  • Try to climb fluidly and keep breathing.
  • Don't use knee bars or no hand rests.

Progression Ladder

  • Start with 2 x 30 or 2 x 20 and over the course of 3 to 4 weeks build up to 3 x 30 minutes.